Saturday, June 09, 2007

 

Stage 3: Longreach to Quilpie



If the previous stage was the stage of entertainment, then this was the 'friendly' stage. Lots of people to talk to about lots of things, particularly people in the pubs and camping grounds.

From Longreach, it was a hop, skip and a jump across to Ilfracombe, a tiny little town between Longreach and Barcaldine. It's not that far from the 'city', but definitely has it's own friendly town atmosphere and town pride. On entering Ilfracombe, we cycled along the outdoor museum - the 'machinery mile' - with vehicles and machinery from eras long past. The Wellshot Hotel was a great little spot to spend the afternoon, and the historic Langenbaker House was interesting and well worth a visit. The caravan park here was one of the most friendly, with a rampaging happy hour where little old men and women pulled out some of the dirtiest jokes you'd hear...

From Ilfracombe, we scooted across to Isisford, which lies on the banks of the Barcoo River, where we camped amongst the trees and grass (and motorhomes!). A highlight here certainly was the Clancy's Overflow Hotel, where we were entertained by publican Margaret and 8-year-old Rebecca, whom the guys had heard on the School of the Air in Longreach the previous day! With a stool to reach the till and the counter, Rebecca pulled a mean beer and certainly didn't take any nonsense from anyone - made for an entertaining evening! Throw into the mix a little joey (called Jenny) slung in a calico pouch and later hopped around in search of her bottle, and a menagerie of baby budgies and other creatures!

Russleigh Station was a memorable stay. We were warmly welcomed by Jo and Buster (who I think were a little puzzled at what these blokes called a 'holiday'!). In the afternoon, the weather started to change and the clouds rolled in... then the rain began. We were nervously anticipating whether or not the bus would need to be moved (as we were camped by the creek) but the rain only turned out to be a shower. Being on the station made us realise how precious the rain is, and how much the farmers are at the mercy of the weather... stuff you always hear, but always brings it home to see it again first hand. Buster had some intruiging stories about the Over the Horizon top secret radar detector down the road at Stonehenge...

But when we got to Stonehenge, there was not indication whatsoever that there was a highly secret radar surveillance around town! You would never have guessed that just out of town is a compound which requires ASIO check to enter, with millions of dollars of computers and temperature controlled bunkers and radars and towers... Stonehenge is a tiny little town, with a very friendly pub who put on a great meal for us that night.

From Stonehenge down to Jundah, another friendly town with another friendly pub! And then Windorah, which was - you guessed it - a friendly town with a pretty cosy pub. Windorah is supposedly QLD's wealthiest postcode, according to census analysis data. You'd never guess by looking at the town, as it's a quiet little outback town.

Some spectacular bush camps followed, along with the onset of winter... And now we're in Quilpie, a big town by our standards! Ready to leave tomorrow to set out for Stage 4: Quilpie to Bourke.

With some new riders on board, it looks like the next stage will be a blast! in a week we'll be over the border...





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